My free large dragon crochet pattern will help you create a big, realistic amigurumi plush with simple step by step instructions, a photo tutorial, and super bulky blanket yarn.

About my Big Free Crochet Dragon Pattern

I am so excited to share my large dragon crochet pattern with you guys, and yes, it is completely free to view on this page!

If you’ve been wanting to make an extra-special, super plush amigurumi, this cute dragon is it. Because it’s worked up in super bulky blanket yarn, it ends up a massive 52” (130 cm) long and is designed to be laying down, making it the perfect big gift that both boys and girls will absolutely obsess over.

I wanted to make sure it looks incredibly detailed and realistic, so I packed it with awesome features like shaped legs, a tapered tail, ears, nostrils, horns, and wings.

I also included options for handmade eyes to give it tons of personality, or you can use ready made safety eyes if you prefer.

Don’t worry about the size intimidating you either, because I’ve written down simple step by step instructions and included a full photo tutorial so we can walk through the whole process together.

I’ve also put together a creative list of extra large amigurumi patterns you might like to try next.

How To Crochet A Large Amigurumi Dragon

If you’re ready to learn how to crochet a big amigurumi dragon, let’s talk about how to tackle this extra large dragon crochet pattern.

This free dragon project is ideal if you’re at an intermediate skill level and have a little confident sewing experience under your belt.

To get that ultra-plush finish, you’ll need super bulky yarn in 2 colors, specifically 625 yards of your main color and 75 yards of a secondary color for the body and wings.

For the dragon’s face, you can use a little worsted or DK weight yarn to crochet eyes, or you can use ready made safety eyes.

Tool-wise, grab a US K / 6.5 mm crochet hook for your crochet dragon and a US E / 3.5 mm crochet hook for its eyes.

You’ll also need plenty of poly-stuffing, stitch markers, and pins. My favorite trick for this big dragon is using DPN knitting needles or wooden skewers to hold pieces in place while sewing.

Following the simple step by step instructions and photo tutorial will help you pull all these extra details together for a gorgeous, seamless look. You can find more of my amigurumi patterns here.

Upgrade Your Lucien The Dragon Crochet Pattern

You can find the ad-free PDF version of my Lucien The Amigurumi Dragon Crochet Pattern in my Etsy and Ravelry shops.

Lucien The Dragon: Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet pattern information

Crochet Supplies:

• US K / 6.5 mm crochet hook
• US E / 3.5 mm crochet hook (for eyes)
• Bernat Blanket Brights, weight (6) super bulky, 100% polyester, 220 yds / 201 m, 10.5 oz / 300 g per skein.
  • Main Color (MC): Race Car Red (625 yds)
  • Contrast Color (CC): Carrot Orange (75 yds)
• A Small amount of DK weight (3) or light worsted weight (4) for the eyes.
  • Eye Color: Yellow
  • Pupil: Black
• Optional: Safety eyes in place of DK weight yarn.
• Stitch markers
• Pins, DPN knitting needles, or wooden skewers to hold pieces in place while sewing.
• Poly-fil stuffing
• Tapestry needle

Gauge:

16 sts x 14 rows = 4” (10 cm) in stitch pattern

Abbreviations:

Written in US Terminology

• BLO: Back Loop Only
• CC: Contrast Color
• ch: chain
• dc: double crochet
• dec: decrease
• FLO: Front Loop Only
• hdc: half double crochet
• inc: increase
• lsc: long single crochet
• MC: Main Color
• pm: place marker
• rep: repeat
• Rnd(s): Round(s)
• sc: single crochet
• sk: skip
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es) yo: yarn over

Special Stitches:

Dec (decrease): When working a decrease in the round you will work through the front loops only of the 2 sts. Insert hook under the front loop of the first st, do not yo, insert hook under the front loop of the second st, yo, pull through both flo sts (2 loops on hook), yo pull through both loops.

When working a decrease on turned rows, you will sc 2 sts together: insert hook into first st, yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook into the next st, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 3 loops.

Inc (increase) work 2 sc into the same st. Lsc (long single crochet) Insert hook into 1, 2, 3, or more rounds below the working row, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through both loops. Instructions will tell you how many rounds below to insert hook.

Gauge:

11 sts x 9 rounds = 4” (10 cm) in sc

Skill level:

Intermediate

Finished Measurements:

52” (130 cm) L from tip of nose to tip of tail x 22” (55 cm) W from wingtip to wingtip.

Notes:

• Body is worked in continuous rounds without joining. Place a locking stitch marker in the first stitch of the round and move up with each new round.
• Eye placement and Leg placement are marked with stitch markers as you work.
• Add Poly-fil stuffing as you work, shaping as you go.
• Legs, wings, horns, back spikes and eyes are worked separately and attached to the body with a tapestry needle.
• Double point knitting needles or wooden skewers are helpful in holding the pieces in place for sewing.

Copyright Notice:

Pattern is sole property of Carol Hladik Designs. Please do not copy or reproduce in any way. 

You are welcome to sell finished items made from this pattern, but please credit me as the designer in your posts.

Free Crochet Pattern: Lucien The Dragon

Body:

With MC and a 6.5 mm hook

Rnd 1: Working into a magic circle, sc 6, pull tight, do not join. (6 sts)

Mark first st of round with a locking marker. Move up with each new round.

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: [Inc, sc] around. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: [Inc in next 3 sts, sc 6] around. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: sc 2, [Inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, sc 6] around. (30 sts)

Rnds 6 – 8: Sc around.

Rnd 9: Sc 8, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 8. (34 sts)

Rnd 10: Sc around.

Rnd 11: Sc 9, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 9. (38 sts)

Rnd 12: Sc around.

Rnd 13: Sc 10, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 10, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 10. (42 sts)

Rnd 14: Sc around.

In the next round you will place markers for eyes.

Rnd 15: Sc 11, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 2, pm, sc 8, pm, sc 2, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 11. (46 sts)

Rnd 16: Sc around.

Rnd 17: Sc 12, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 14, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 12. (50 sts)

Rnds 18 – 20: Sc around.

If using safety eyes, place them in marked sts after Rnd 20.

Round 21: Sc 18, [inc] 3 times, sc 9, [inc] 3 times, sc 17. (56)

Rnd 22: sc 7, [dec] 3 times, sc 6, [inc, sc] 3 times, sc 9, [sc, inc] 3 times, sc 6, [dec] 3 times, sc 4. (56 sts)

Rnd 23: Sc around.

In the next round you will create openings to place horns later.

Rnd 24: Sc 17, sk 7 sts, sc 11, sk 7 sts, sc 14. (42 sts)

Rnd 25: Sc around.

Rnd 26: Sc 12, [inc] 2 times, sc 18, [inc] 2 times, sc 8. (46 sts)

Rnds 27- 28: Sc around.

Stuff head firmly with Poly-fil, shaping as you go.

Rnd 29: Sc 9, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 12, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 1. (42 sts)

Rnds 30 – 31: Sc around.

Rnd 32: Sc 10, [dec] 2 times, sc 3, [dec] 2 times, sc 9, [dec] 2 times, sc 3, [dec] 2 times, dc. (34 sts)

Rnds 33 – 35: Sc around.

Continue adding Poly-fil every few rows for the remainder of the body.

Rnd 36: [Sc 3, inc] around to last 2 sts, sc 2. (42 sts)

Rnds 37 – 38: Sc around.

Rnd 39: [Sc 5, inc] around. (49 sts)

Rnds 40 – 41: Sc around.

Rnd 42: [Sc 6, Inc] around. (56 sts)

Rnds 43 – 44: Sc around.

Rnd 45: [Sc 7, inc] around. (63 sts)

Rnds 46 – 48: Sc around.

Using the markers for the eyes as a guide, Mark both sides of round 47 for front leg placement. Markers do not need to be exact; you can adjust them when attaching the legs. The markers are for general placement location.

Rnd 49: [Sc 8, inc] around. (70 sts)

Rnds 50 – 54: Sc around.

Rnd 55: [Sc 8, dec] around. (63 sts)

Rnds 56 – 59: Sc around.

Rnd 60: [Sc 7, dec] around. (56 sts)

Rnds 61 – 62: Sc around.

Mark both sides of round 62 for back leg placement. Keep in mind this is a general placement, and will be adjusted when attaching legs.

Rnd 63: [Sc 6, dec] around. (49 sts)

Rnds 64 – 65: Sc around.

Rnd 66: [Sc 5, dec] around. (42 sts)

Rnd 67: Sc around.

Rnd 68: [Sc 4, dec] around. (35 sts)

Rnd 69: Sc around.

Rnd 70: [Sc 3, dec] around. (28 sts)

Rnds 71 – 72: Sc around.

Rnd 73: Dec, sc 10, [dec] 2 times, sc 10, dec. (24 sts)

Rnd 74: Sc around.

Rnd 75: [Dec] 2 times, sc 8, [inc] 3 times, sc 7, dec. (24 sts)

Rnd 76: Sc around.

Rnd 77: [Dec] 2 times, sc 6, [inc, sc] 3 times, sc 6, dec. (24 sts)

Rnd 78: Sc around.

Rnd 79: Dec, sc, dec, sc 5, inc, sc, inc, sc 5, dec, sc, dec, sc. (22 sts)

Rnds 80 – 81: Sc around.

Rnd 82: Dec, sc, dec, sc 5, [inc] 4 times, sc 3, dec, sc, dec. (22 sts)

Rnds 83 – 86: Sc around.

In the next steps you will create the curve of the tail.

Rnd 87: Sl st 7, sc 11, sl st 4. (22 sts)

Rnd 88: Lsc 7 two rnds below (you will sk the sl st and the sc the sl st is worked into and insert your hook into the sc of rnd 85), sc 11, lsc 4 two rnds below. (22 sts)

Rnds 89 – 96: Rep Rnds 87 & 88.

Rnd 97: Sc around.

Rnd 98: Dec, sc 5, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 5. (19 sts)

Rnds 99 – 100: Sc around.

Rnd 101: Sl st 9, sc 10.

Rnd 102: Lsc 9 two rnds below, sc 10.

Rnds 103 – 106: Rep Rnds 101 & 102.

Rnd 107: Sc around.

Rnds 108 – 114: Rep Rnds 101 – 107.

Rnd 115: Sc 3, sl st 6, sc 10.

Rnd 116: Sc 3, Lsc 6 two rnds below, sc 10.

Rnds 117 – 118: Sc around.

Rnd 119: [Sc 3, dec] 3 times, sc 4. (16 sts)

Rnds 120 – 121: Sc around.

Rnd 122: [Dec, sc 2] around. (12 sts)

Fasten Off.

Tail point (Make 2):

With MC and a 6.5 mm hook

Row 1: Ch 13, sc in 2^nd ch and across, turn. (12 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, dec, sc 8, dec, turn. (10 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc across, turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, dec, sc 6, dec, turn. (8 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc across, turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, dec, sc 4, dec, turn. (6 sts)

Row 7: Ch 1, dec, sc 2, dec, turn. (4 sts)

Row 8: Ch 1, [dec] 2 times, turn. (2 sts)

Row 9: Ch 1, sc across, turn.

Row 10: Ch 1, dec. (1 st)

Fasten off.

Lay pieces one on top of the other with Row 1 at the top, making sure all rows are lined up.

Working into Row 1, and through both layers, reattach yarn 4 sts from the corner with a sl st.  You will be working around the tail point leaving the center of Row 1 open to attach to the tail.

Ch 1, sc in same st as join and next 2 sts, (sc, ch 2, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook, sc) all in corner, work 1 sc in end of Rows 2 – 9, (sc, ch 1, sc) all in top point, work 1 sc in end of Rows 9 – 2, (sc, ch 2, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook, sc) all in corner st, sc 3, Working across top piece only, sc 6, turn, working across back piece only, sc 6, sl st in first sc of front piece.

Fasten off leaving a long tail to attach point to the end of the tail.

Add Poly-fil to point and end of tail, seam together with a tapestry needle. Weave in ends.

Back Legs (Make 2):

With MC and a 6.5 mm hook

Rnd 1:  Working into a magic circle, sc 6, pull tight, do not join. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: [Sc, inc] around. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] around. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] around. (30 sts)

Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] around. (36 sts)

Rnd 7: Sc around, turn.

You will begin working in turned rows.

Row 8: Ch 1, sc 12, turn. (12 sts)

Row 9: Ch 1, inc, sc 10, inc, turn. (14 sts)

Row 10: Ch 1, inc, sc 12, inc, turn. (16 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, inc, sc 14, inc, turn. (18 sts)

Row 12: Ch 1, inc, sc 16, inc, sl st in first st to join in the round. (20 sts)

You will begin working in the round again.

Rnd 13 – 15: Ch 1, sc around.

Follow instructions making one Right Leg and one Left Leg.

Right Leg:

Rnd 16: Sc 16, [inc] 4 times. (24 sts)

Rnd 17: [Dec] 4 times, sc 16. (20 sts)

Rnds 18 – 19: Sc 5, [dec] 2 times, sc 5, inc, sc, inc, sc 3. (20 sts)

Rnd 20: Sc around.

Rnd 21: Sc 5, [dec] 2 times, sc 5, inc, sc, inc, sc 3. (20 sts)

Rnd 22: Sc around.

Rnd 23: [Dec, sc] 3 times, sc 11. (17 sts)

Rnd 24: [Sc, dec] 2 times, sc 11. (15 sts)

Rnd 25: Sc 6, [dec] 3 times, sc 3. (12 sts)

Rnd 26: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off leaving a tail to weave end closed.

Weave tail though all 6 sts and pull tight to close, weave in ends to secure. Stuff leg and set aside, make Left Leg.

Left Leg:

Rnd 16: [Inc] 4 times, sc 16. (24 sts)

Rnd 17: Sc 16, [dec] 4 times. (20 sts)

Rnds 18 – 19: Sc 3, inc, sc, inc, sc 5, [dec] 2 times, sc 5. (20 sts)

Rnd 20: Sc around.

Rnd 21: Sc 3, inc, sc, inc, sc 5, [dec] 2 times, sc 5. (20 sts)

Rnd 22: Sc around.

Rnd 23: Sc 11, [sc, dec] 3 times. (17 sts)

Rnd 24: Sc 11, [dec, sc] 2 times. (15 sts)

Rnd 25: Sc 3, [dec] 3 times, sc 6. (12 sts)

Rnd 26: Dec around. (6 sts)

Fasten off leaving a tail to weave end closed.  

Weave tail though all 6 sts and pull tight to close, weave in end to secure. Stuff leg.

Attaching Back Legs:

Line up the top outer edge of Rnd 7 of the leg with Rnd 62 (marked rnd) of the body. Pin the leg in place with straight pins, dpn’s, or wooden skewers. Using a tapestry needle, attach the top half of round 7 to the body with a whip stitch. Flip dragon over so the underside is facing up, stuff remainder of the leg, continue attaching the leg to the body. More poly-fil can be added as you go to ensure leg is fully stuffed. Weave in remaining ends.  (See photos)

Front Legs (Make 2):

With MC and a 6.5 mm hook

Rnd 1:  Working into a magic circle, sc 6, pull tight, do not join. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: [Sc, inc] around. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] around. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: Sc around, turn.

You will begin working in turned rows.

Rnd 6: Ch 1, inc, sc 6, inc, turn. (10 sts)

Rnd 7: Ch 1, inc, sc 8, inc, sl st in first st of round. (12 sts)

You will begin working in the round again.

Rnd 8: Ch 1, inc, sc 10, inc. (14 sts)

Rnds 9 – 18: Sc around.

Rnd 19: [Dec, sc 5] around. (12 sts)

Rnd 20: Sc around.

Rnd 21: [Sc, dec] around. (8 sts)

Rnd 22: Sc around.

Fasten off leaving a tail to weave end closed.  

Weave tail though all 6 sts and pull tight to close, weave in end to secure.

Reattach yarn into the opening of the leg, sc all the way around, sl st in first sc of round to join.

Fasten off leaving an 8 to 10” tail to sew leg to body. Stuff leg.

Attaching Front Legs:

Line up the top outer edge of Rnd 7 of the leg with Rnd 47 (marked rnd) of the body. Pin the leg in place with straight pins, dpn’s, or wooden skewers. Using a tapestry needle, attach the top half of round 7 to the body with a whip stitch. Flip dragon over so the underside is facing up, stuff remainder of the leg, continue attaching the leg to the body. More poly-fil can be added as you go to ensure leg is fully stuffed. Weave in remaining ends. (See photo)

Horns (Make 2):

With CC and a 6.5 mm hook

Rnd 1: Leaving a 3” starting tail, ch 10, making a loop, sc in first ch and around. (10 sts)

Rnd 2: Sc around.

Rnd 3: Dec, sc 8. (9 sts)

Rnd 4: Sc around.

Rnd 5: Dec, sc 7. (8 sts)

Rnds 6 – 7: Sc around.

Rnd 8: Dec, sc 6. (7 sts)

Rnds 9 – 10: Sc around.

Rnd 11: Dec, Sc 5. (6 sts)

Rnds 12 – 13: Sc around.

Rnd 14: Dec, Sc 4. (5 sts)

Rnd 15: Dec, sc FLO 3. (4 sts)

Fasten off leaving a tail to weave end closed.

Weave tail though all 4 sts and pull tight to close, weave in end to secure.

Stuff with Poly-fil. Weave beginning tail through each st of starting ch, pull tight to close, weave in end.

Insert horn into the opening on head. Using a piece of MC yarn and a tapestry needle secure the horn to the head seaming through both layers of the head and the horn. Weave in end to secure and bend horn to desired shape.  

Back Spikes:

With CC and a 6.5 mm hook

Ch 79, beginning in the 2^nd ch, *sc, hdc, (dc, ch 2, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook, dc) all in the same sp, hdc, sc, sl st; rep from * across. (13 spikes)

• Note: The spikes should be long enough to go from between the horns to the tail seam before the Tail Point. Depending on how tightly you crochet, they yarn you use, and the amount of poly-fil you use, the length needed can vary. If the length is too short (or too long), add (or subtract) multiples of 6 to your starting chain. Every 6 stitches added will add one spike.

Fasten Off. 

Pin spikes into place with the first spike in line with the seam of the tail and tail point, and the last spike ending between the horns.  With a long length of CC yarn and a tapestry needle, sew spikes down the length of the body to secure. (See photo)

Crochet eyes (Make 2):

With DK yarn in choice of eye color and a 3.5 mm crochet hook

Rnd 1:  Working into a magic circle, sc 6, pull tight, do not join. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: [Sc, inc] twice, mark last st worked (st 6), [sc, inc] three times, mark last st worked (st 15), sc, inc, sl st in first st of rnd to join. (18 sts)

Fasten off leaving a long tail to attach.

Pupil: Attach DK black yarn into marked st 15 of Rnd 3 with a sl st, *lsc into the space between round 2 and round 3 directly above marked st 6 on opposite side of eye (the sc will extend across almost the entire eye), sl st into the next st on the top of eye (st 16), repeat from * 3 times placing the lsc into the same st every time. (See photos)

Place eye over marked stitch on dragon and remove marker, with a tapestry needle and a piece of eye colored yarn, begin securing the eye to the head. Once eye is half way attached, stuff lightly behind eye, secure remainder of eye to head.

Eye Lids:

With MC and a 6.5 mm hook

Attach yarn in st just right of the top of the eye with a sl st. Surface crochet 4 sts around the top of the eye working into the sts as close to the edge of the eye as possible. Sl st to finish off eye lid. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Repeat for second eye.

Wings (Make 2):

With MC and a 6.5 mm hook

Row 1: Ch 10, sc in 2^nd ch and across, turn. (9 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, [sc, inc] across to last st, sc, turn. (16 sts)

Row 3: Ch 5, sc in 2^nd ch and next 3 chs, sl st in first st of Row 2, turn. (4 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc BLO to last st, inc, turn. (5 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, inc, sc BLO across, sl st in next st of Row 2, turn. (6 sts)

Rows 6 – 13: Rep Rows 4 & 5 (14 sts)

Row 14: Ch 1, sc BLO 8, inc, turn. (10 sts)

Row 15: Ch 1, inc, sc BLO across, sl st in next st of Row 2, turn. (11 sts)

Rows 16 – 21: Rep Rows 4 & 5 (17 sts)

Row 22: Ch 1, sc BLO 12, inc, turn. (14 sts)

Row 23: Ch 1, inc, sc BLO across, sl st in next st of Row 2, turn. (15 sts)

Rows 24 – 33: Repeat Rows 4 & 5 (25 sts)

Switch to CC in last yo of Row 33, fasten off MC and continue with CC to Edging.

Wing Edging:

Left Wing: Sc 24 across Row 33, (sc, ch 2, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook, sl st) all in last st, turn to work across ends of rows, sc 10, sl st in Row 22, sc 2 up toward next point, (sc, ch 2, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook, sl st) all in the next st, sc 6 across row ends, sl st Row 14, sc 3 up toward next point, (sc, ch 2, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook, sl st) all in the next st, sc 9 across row ends, (sc, ch 2, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook, sl st) all in next st, inc, sc 4 to bottom of wing, turn to work across the bottom, sl st in first st of starting ch, change to MC, beginning in same st as sl st, [dec] 4 times, 2 sl st in last st, sl st in end of Row 2, sl st in first st of edging to join. Fasten off leaving tail of MC for attaching wing to body.

Right Wing: Working toward the bottom of the wing, sl st in the end of Row 2, 2 sl st in corner of Row 1, turn to work across the bottom, beginning in next st [dec] 4 times, change to CC. turn to work across Row 3, sc 4, inc, (sc, ch 2, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook, sl st) all in the next st, sc 9, (sc, ch 2, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook, sl st) all in the next st, sc 3 down Row 13, sl st in Row 14, sc 6, (sc, ch 2, sl st in 2^nd ch, sl st) all in the next st, sc 2, sl st in Row 22, sc 10 (sc, ch 2, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook, sl st) all in the next st, sc 24 down Row 33, sl st in first st of edging to join. Fasten off leaving tail of MC for attaching wing to body.

Place wings on either side of the back spikes and attach to body with a tapestry needle and MC yarn tail.

Ears (Make 2):

With MC and a 6.5 mm hook

Row 1: Ch 6, sc in 2^nd ch and across, turn. (5 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc across, turn.

Row 3: * Ch 3, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook, dc in same st, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, sl st in the same st, sl st in next 2 sts of Row 2, repeat from * two times.

Fasten off leaving a tail to attach ear to body.

With a tapestry needle attach ear behind and around to the outside edge of horn. (see photos) 

Nostrils:

With MC and a 6.5 mm hook

Working in line with the outside edge of the eyelid, * insert hook between Rnds 5 & 6 of dragon snout, and through to st between Rnds 7 & 8 (Hook will be under 2 rnds), yo, pull loop through leaving a starting tail, sl st loop to secure. Working through 2 rnds, sc 3, fasten off leaving a tail to secure stitches. * Sk 2 sts at center of snout and rep instructions from * to * for second nostril. Weave in ends to secure.

Finishing Touches:

With CC and a tapestry needle you will be creating the illusion of toes and claws by dividing the end of each foot into 3 sections; 3 toes, 2 claws on each foot.

For each claw, you will repeat the following steps:

Insert needle approx. 1/3 of the width of the foot, and 2 to 3 rounds from the end of the foot pushing needle all the way through from the bottom of the foot to the top. Pull yarn around the front of the foot and back into the same st at the bottom of the foot, and through to the top.

To keep from having extra ends to weave in on each foot, insert the needle back into the same st at the bottom of the foot, and out 2 to 3 sts* over from the first claw at the top of the foot to begin the next claw. Pull yarn around the front of the foot and into the bottom of the foot 2 to 3 sts over from the first claw. I wrapped each claw 2 times. (See photos)

*2 sts between claws on the front feet and 3 sts between claws on the back feet.

Weave in all ends and enjoy your new dragon!

Stay in Touch

I hope you enjoyed this crochet pattern!

I would love to see your finished items! Tag me on Instagram or Facebook with your completed crochet projects: @carol_hladik_designs

Happy Crocheting!

~ Carol